Thursday, 8 October 2015

Day 8: Kaya and Seggae music

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Thursday, October 08, 2015 in travel

Seggae is a musical style that mixes Sega (traditional Mauritian music) and Reggae. It was invented by Kaya, an extremely popular singer in Mauritius and whose death in 1999 led to violent riots in the country.

Joseph Reginald Topize, also known as "Kaya" was born 10th of August 1960.

As a teenager, he discovers a passion for music and plays guitar. He also grow his hair and has dreadlocks. In the seventies, he is part of a band which plays Bob Marley's covers, but "Rasta" people suffer many prejudices in Mauritius, and sometimes venues don't want to accept him because of the way he acts and look.

In spite of these difficulties, he starts playing at several concerts, and during a charity gig in Baie du Tombeau, the audience loves his Bob Marley's "Kaya" cover so much that he decides to change his name and be called "Kaya".

In the eighties, he creates his own group, Racine Tatane (named after the famous Malagasy prince Ratsitatane, beheaded in Mauritius) and invents "Seggae" music, a mix of Reggae and Sega. The band starts by playing free concerts with other artists, but the Mauritian public is not ready to accept this style of music yet, and Rasta people are still quite unpopular in the country.

Racine Tatane's manager decides to promote the group in the nearby Reunion island, and the success is massive. The Mauritian public, inexorably jealous, begins to wonder who is this group that attracts the crowds in Reunion Island. The band releases its first album: "Seggae Nu Lamiszik". As a result, Kaya and Racine Tatane are invited to a concert in honour of Nelson Mandela and it's a big success. They will subsequently play several sold out gigs: 20,000 spectators in front of the parliament and even 44,000 at the National Stadium.

The first album sells like hotcakes, and Seggae music is becoming extremely popular. Kaya and Racine Tatane will then release several albums: "La Pé Universel", "Seggae Man", "Racine pé brillé", "Zistwar révoltant", "Chante Marley".

In his lyrics, Kaya denounces political powers, lies, and injustice. Although he becomes almost a national hero, it doesn't really change the discrimination Rastas are facing (and in fact the Creole community as a whole), especially from the government and the Hindu community. In many of his songs, Kaya pleads for legalization of Gandia (cannabis), and it doesn't really please them.

In Mauritius, cannabis use is severely repressed and prison sentences are frequent. Yet, some politicians from the "Republican movement" are in favour of decriminalization. On 16th of February 1999, this political party organizes a concert with several artists, including Kaya.

Some spectators are seen smoking gandia and Kaya himself smokes a joint on stage. The affair is a scandal and several people are arrested including Kaya. He admits to smoking gandia and is detained. The bail is set at 10,000 rupees. Kaya's family and friends manage to raise the money but because of a few mistakes made by his lawyers, it is decided that Kaya would not be released until the Monday.

Unfortunately, he's found dead in his cell on Sunday, 21st of February. The official version says he would have have been in drug withdrawal and smashed his head against the wall, but very few people in Mauritius believe this version. Kaya's wife then requires an expertise by a doctor from Reunion Island and his verdict is that Kaya would have been beaten.

The news spread quickly on the island, causing riots. The troubles begin in his native village of Roche Bois and then extend to the whole country. The demonstrators strongly dispute the official version of Kaya's death, but beyond that, they express a profound uneasiness felt by all the Creole community: the constant discrimination they experience.

Fabrice told me that when the riots began, he was working in a hotel, and was forbidden to leave his workplace for 3 days because it was too dangerous.

Kaya was buried in Roche Bois and several thousand people were present at the funeral.

I know that this article is certainly incomplete, but the goal was just to make you discover an artist that I got to know when I was in Mauritius. Fabrice and his brothers told me a lot about Kaya and the riots. Fabrice's family is Creole, and to hear people speak of what they felt when Kaya died, made me understand that he was truly a hero to the Creole community. They thought he could change the image that society and the government had of them.

Unfortunately he left too soon to change all that ...

Day 7: Rochester falls

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Wednesday, October 07, 2015 in travel

Rochester Falls are situated on the south of the island and to get there, you'll have to drive through the sugar cane fields. The falls are not very easy to access, and we actually feared for the car at the time because the roads can get quite bumpy and muddy. Driving to the falls themselves is impossible so you'll have to leave your car a few hundred meters away and walk the rest of the journey.

Sugar cane field

From what I've heard, some Mauritians are supposed to wait and offer to mind your car for a few rupees. Unfortunately others can try to steal it as well, so just be aware of that. We actually didn't see anyone that day, and our car was still there when we came back.

Unlike other cascades, you can see these ones very closely, and from the bottom, which is quite unusual. There were two local guys on top of the rocks who offered to demonstrate a dive, but we refused because, well, it looked quite dangerous.

In fact, a family member told me that a few weeks before, someone hit a rock while diving and unfortunately died. So don't try it unless you're very experimented...

Day 6: Taking the bus...A whole adventure

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 in travel

I always wanted to take the bus in Mauritius. Somehow I think I just wanted to experience something "local". Fabrice always said that if he had a choice, he would rather rent a car than risk his life taking public transport, but given how most Mauritians drive, I don't think a car is necessarily a safer option.

On a previous visit, a friend of the family had more or less fulfilled my wish and we took the bus from Port Louis to Grand Baie, but it was air-conditioned and rather "modern" (compared to the average Mauritian bus). From my journey I don't remember anything because it was so comfortable I fell asleep after 5 minutes...

The last time we went on holiday, we were actually forced to take public transport, and considering there had been fatal accidents a few weeks before, getting on one of those buses was really scaring me. On one occasion, a driver lost control and couldn't stop because of an issue with the brakes. The result: 10 people died. A few days later, two other buses caught fire on the road, but fortunately there were no casualties. A few weeks after that, one of the bus door just "fell down" right onto to road... The common point? All these buses belonged to the CNT (National Transport Corporation). From what I heard when I was there, some buses were not inspected regularly, and some didn't even pass any technical inspections.

One thing to be aware of is that most buses in Mauritius are imported and reconditioned, so in the end you have little chance to travel in a "new" bus.

The picture speaks for itself

You can imagine that the last thing I wanted to do this time was to take the bus! But as we didn't have a car the first few days and really had to move around, we had no choice.

All I can say is that you'd better hold on to your seats, especially when the bus turns! The day we were finally getting our rental car, we had to take the bus from Plaine Magnien to Curepipe (1 hour trip). We took the "Curepipe Express". In fact it meant that the driver was going as fast as possible, and stopped to pick up passengers, trying to be the first to do so (It's like he wouldn't let the bus behind overtake him ...). And because it was the "Express" bus, he kept shouting "Go, go, go, hurry up, it's the Curepipe Express!! As soon as a passenger was on the first step, the driver would restart straight away.

There was overtaking from every direction, even in the bends, some cars were coming in front of us and there was so little space between them and the bus that my heart started racing.

Mauritians are used to this kind of driving, it's normal for them, but I was on the front row, and a bit panicked (my kids loved the journey though!). I tried to film with my phone, but I failed to capture something spectacular, like our bus, overtaking another bus, in a bend with another oncoming bus (I really thought it was my last trip).

Once we picked up our rental car, we had to drive behind buses, breathing the black smoke coming out of them, or witnessing another incident: The entire windshield falling on the road...

Sure you don't see that in Ireland or France!

Day 5: Blue-Bay

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Monday, October 05, 2015 in travel

Blue Bay beach is located on the south east coast, approximately 6 kms from Mahébourg. This corner of the island is best known for the beauty of its seabed, and if you're around, I suggest you take a diving trip, or if like me, you're useless at using a mask and snorkel, you can try a glass bottom boat excursion (about 7 Euros per person).

During my first visit to Mauritius, we had a ride in one of these boats and I was blown away by the diversity of corals (there are over 50 species) and colourful tropical fishes that live in these turquoise waters.

Blue-Bay is very popular with Mauritians who love to spend time on the beach at the weekend. They usually have a family picnic, play cards and rest under the casuarinas. Fabrice remembers that as a child he had to walk to the beach from Mahébourg because there were no buses and he has fond memories of family time spent on that beach...

View of "L'ile aux aigrettes"

Opposite Blue-bay is the "Ile aux aigrettes" (Egret island). Declared a natural reserve in 1965, it's now taken care of by the "Mauritian Wildlife Foundation," who has managed to restore the forest and reintroduce plant and animal species that had disappeared from the island a long time ago. I never had the opportunity to visit the island, but it will certainly be on the agenda of our next holiday as it's important to educate ourselves and our children to the protection of the environment.

Day 4: Port Louis

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Sunday, October 04, 2015 in travel

Port-Louis is the capital of Mauritius and is situated on the north coast. It is the administrative, political and economic centre of the island.

The city is separated in two parts. On one side you can find the "old city" and on the other side, the "Caudan Waterfront". That part is extremely touristic with many restaurants, shopping centres and duty-free outlets. There are also interesting artists exposing in the area and there is an artisan market where you can buy locally made creations.

Caudan

Waterfront

Wood Sculpture

The city-centre can be accessed via an underground tunnel. On the other side, the atmosphere is completely different. The streets are busy, there are little markets everywhere and poverty is visible.

Street market


Newsagent

The indoor market (Bazar) is one of the main city-centre activities. You can buy pretty much anything, from food to clothes, spices,fabric and even souvenirs. I personally didn't enjoy the experience. Sellers are very pushy and made me feel uncomfortable. On top of that, I'm terrible at negotiating a price, and even if it's a "question of principle", I just can't do it. There are other markets on the island much more enjoyable, and I will write about them in another post.

I didn't take any pictures inside the "Bazar", I was too busy trying to get out. One thing you have to know is that it is a bit of a tourist trap. If you're from the country, fine. You'll know your way around and how to get a bargain. If you're a tourist, let's just say there are chances you'll pay more for something that you would have got at a fairer price somewhere else. I know these people have to make a living, but I don't really appreciate the way they're doing it. Again, I've been to other markets on the island where you didn't feel pushed into buying anything.

Above, you can see the government buildings and Queen Victoria stature, reminiscent of the English colonization.

And here is Sir Seewosagur Ramgoolam, the "Father of the Nation". He was a leader in the Mauritian independence movement, modernized the country and improved the life of the Mauritian population by introducing free healthcare, free education and old age pension.

Port Louis is like any capital city. It's busy, crowded with people, cars, buses, and bikes. It's not really "relaxing" unless you stay on the Caudan side, but if you do that, you'll miss the "real" Port-Louis, the city that is the home or the workplace of many Mauritian.It has a wonderful architecture, a mix of all the cultures that represent the island. It won't be unusual to find a church next to an Hindu temple, and walk on the streets of "Chinatown" just after passing by a former French colonial house.

Port-Louis has a lot to offer, if only those indoor market sellers were nicer!!

Day 3: Getting there

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Saturday, October 03, 2015 in travel

We don't travel light when we go to Mauritius...

I have travelled to Mauritius five times and managed to experience different airlines. This is my ranking from worst to best:

4- Air France

Does it really come as a surprise? I don't think so. Maybe we were just unlucky between delays, no leg room in the plane, no personal screen at the back of the seat, unfriendly airport staff, lost suitcases, I don't know.

I remember coming back to Dublin a few years ago, after 2 weeks holidays. We were waiting for our suitcases in the arrival hall, and I don't know if that ever happened to you, but when you see people picking up their suitcase one after the other, and there's still no sign of yours, the tension starts mounting, you start sweating, your heart is racing and then there's that defining moment when you realise you won't get your suitcase. That moment is when the belt stops, and you're still waiting. Our luggage missed the connection in Paris, and we only got our stuff back two days later.

All I can say is if you can avoid Air France,do.

3- British Airways

In terms of comfort, punctuality and friendliness of the staff, I have nothing bad to say. The only pain is the airport in itself. Security was extremely high each time. I had to taste my kid's milk and fruit puree to make sure it wasn't dangerous - yet they serve your meal in the plane with real forks and knives, go figure...

The other downside is when Fabrice got stuck in Mauritius when they refused to embark him on the plane due to his passport only being valid for 5 months instead of 6. We take full responsibility for this (although they didn't say anything in Dublin when we flew over...) but, the whole experience left a bad taste in my mouth.

2- Air Mauritius

If you're travelling with babies, you're in for a treat. They are very family friendly, helpful and you'll even get a little bag (it's so pretty you can use as a make-up bag afterwards) with all the essentials: spare nappies, cream, wipes and so on. The plane is beyond comfortable, and I couldn't praise the staff enough.

The only downside with flying Air Mauritius is the price (they are a lot more expensive than Emirates) and the fact that you'll have to transit via Charles de Gaulle, enough said...

1- Emirates Airlines

Comfortable, luxurious, and most of all expensive. This is how I imagined Emirates before we booked our tickets a couple of years ago. So I didn't think when comparing airlines that our flight would cost a 1000 euros less than with Air France or BA! And I have to say, the "Emirates Experience" really exceeded our expectations.

The baggage allowance is particularly generous: 46 kg per adult and 23 kg per child. And unlike with Air France, our luggage arrived with us and in good condition.

The only difference with the other trips is that we stopped in Dubai instead of Paris or London, and so we took two 7 hours flights. It worried me a lot, because travelling with a child under 2 is not easy. Well I'm not gonna lie, Ciarán (5 years old at the time) was great, but Ethan (21 months) didn't sleep at all.

Fortunately the staff was fantastic. Children's well-being is a priority with Emirates. On each flight, the kids received an activity book, a small magnetic tablet, and a fleece blanket (We still have them after 2 years!). We also got a package of baby essentials. And the children's menu was so good I wanted to eat my children's food.

The stopover in Dubai lasted three hours. The airport is huge, but everything is well signposted so we didn't get lost. The airport provides free pushchairs for children, and only that in itself was a lifesaver! There is a large choice of restaurants, but since our budget was limited we stuck with McDonald's.Yet, eating a "chicken MacArabia" was an interesting experience!

Travelling to far away destinations is never easy, especially with children, and yes, you'll be tired when you arrive, no matter how organised you are. I've always dreaded long flights with children, but unfortunately there's nothing we can do about it (except winning the lotto and travelling first class). So I think my main advice, whatever airline you choose, and whatever you're flying on your own or with kids, is "stay calm, breathe, it only lasts a day"...

Day 2 - It's not only palm trees and sandy beaches...

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Friday, October 02, 2015 in travel

What are the first words that come to your mind when you hear “Mauritius”? For me it was “luxury destination”, “palm trees”, “sandy beaches”and “lagoon”. Believe it or not, I even thought Mauritius was flat because all you could see in travel brochures were 5 stars hotels surrounded by, well, lagoons, beaches and palm trees… Imagine my surprise when I landed there for the first time and told Fabrice:”Oh, there are mountains in Mauritius??” (I’m not joking, I actually asked the question).

There are mountains, and sandy beaches, and palm trees... and a 5* hotel behind them

Anyway, let’s start this 31 days series with a bit of general information about the country so you don’t look as stupid as me if you ever travel there.

Where is it?

It's a tiny island in the Indian Ocean, near Madagascar so you can imagine how long it can take to get there… (12 hours flight in case you’re wondering - subject that I will be covering in another post)

And this is the Mauritian flag

The Red represents the blood shed during the revolution of independence

The Blue represents the ocean

The Yellow represents the sun

The Green represents the agriculture

The island was discovered first by the Arabs and then successively colonized by the Dutch, the French and the English. The country obtained his independence in 1968 and became a republic in 1992. The national day is on 12th of March.

The official language is English (mainly used for administrative purposes), but everybody speaks French and créole, which can be a bit confusing at times. You can go to the bank, talk to the customer service agent in French and fill out paperwork in English, then turn around and speak to your friend in Créole...

Mauritius has a tropical climate, hot and humid. Being situated in the southern hemisphere, the seasons are inverted compared to Europe. There are only two main seasons: Summer between October and April and Winter between May and September.

The island is also prone to cyclonic weather. Usually cyclones go through the island between December and March, when it's the warmest. Bear that in mind when you're planning your holidays. You don't want to get stranded, unable to leave your hotel for 10 days! The best months to visit the country are March-April and October-November.

The population of Mauritius is approximately 1.2 million and counts 65% Hindu, 25% creole (most of them descendants of slaves) and the rest are Muslim, Chinese and Europeans.

There are many natural sites to visit, and the country is extremely rich historically. This is usually something travel agents don't tell you. They're just trying to sell the sandy beaches, palm trees and overall relaxing holidays. No wonder Mauritius is one of the top honeymoon destination!

But there is so much more to Mauritius, and over the next month, I will try to make you discover the country under a different angle.

31 days to... Take a break from Ireland and discover Mauritius

Posted by Anne Canaveera on Thursday, October 01, 2015 in travel

Over the last few days I felt a bit deflated by the Blog Awards and the fact that I didn't make it to the final. I even thought about taking a break from blogging altogether.

Then I read this post from A Frog at large, who is taking part in the 31 days writing challenge: 31 days, 31 posts, 1 topic.

And I thought, maybe I shouldn't take a break from blogging, maybe just a break from writing about Ireland and being French and stuff...Maybe I should write about something else, somewhere else.

That's when the idea came up